SHIOKA OKAMOTO

TEXTILE DESIGN | WEB PORTFOLIO


Intense





Series of block printed textiles with natural dyes which is inspired by authentic dyeing method I have experienced in Jaipur, combining Indigo print I have met in the Netherlands. The title of "intense" includes various meaning: the strong visual effect of the dyeing outcome, high concentration of chemical in the printed paste, what is more, the sensational experiences in India - strong natural light, noise, taste and people. The rough printed pattern translates the earthy feel of Indian interior spacial features such as brick texture and holed walls.



Intense II 1000mm x 2700mm



Detail



Technically, the dark background color is dip-dyed by combination of tannin acid and iron, and the indigo part is printed afterwards. Crinking is effectively structured particularly on thin fabric as the alkaline indigo paste shrink cellulouse fiber. At the same time, white outline is created due to the strong alkaline removing some parts of background, it looks like cracked ice.



Intense 520 x 520mm



inspiration



photographed in India

dec 2019



Inspiration



photographed in India

dec 2019



Inspiration



photographed in India

dec 2019



Making process, experiments



Two dyeing experience inspired this work, one is block printing in India. Printed with mordant paste and resist paste. Tannin solution is used for pre-mordanting and rinsing thoroughly. Long time inherited techniques are related to the environmental condition and creates its distinctive taste.



Three piece of printed fabrics dyed in India. (blocks is curved by craftsmen) Strong black (Iron) and red (Alum + Alizarin) on tannin recalls Indian-feel. All the process is natural and authentic approach, such as fermented iron solution and Alum crystals, rough and intense ingredients.



Dyeing without dyes but only with mordant has a lot of potential to work with, particularly the shade of iron+ tannin black was deep yet not as heavy as the one in India. Indigo was used both vat dye and printing paste. The paste requires an extra care to handle, and different from usual resist method



The second is natural dyeing in NL featuring mordants of Iron, Alum and Titanium. Wide range of hues and shades of major dyes are completed by mixing the mordants in a systematic way. Dunging, soaking in Enzyme + alkali solution after mordanting, was eye-opening experience.



I have tried the indigo paste following the recipe in NL, but the result was again different. The paste is much thicker and the blue is deeper than that. The mercerization effect is stronger too. However, the unexpectable phenomenon excites me than forming perfection. It looks like a negative image of tie-dye.



It is not possible to dye as the same as in India nor NL even though with the same recipe. There is environmental difference, the quality of water, and some of the ingredients are difficult to obtain in another country otherwise expensive. Concentrated natural dye powder is not popular in Japan.



The “flashy light effect” of indigo print + tannin iron black recalled me the natural light of Indian architectural spaces. The places I have visited in there was mostly modernist architecture – geometrical yet coarse and there was authentic atmosphere. Going around, journey of inspiration finally arrived here.



How it will be when I combine with tannin pre-mordanting and the intense indigo paste? As a result, sodium hydroxide created “white outline” around the printed area, and it looks like a flush light. Adding black of tannin + iron on background makes the contrast much stronger.



data



dyed textile



​2020-2021

Designed and made by Shioka Okamoto


Material: cotton fabric

Technique: dip dye, block print


Exhibition

”Textile in Future Expression JTC”

07.03.2021- 28.03.2021

at Takarazuka Arts Center


”Square SOME 7”

06.03.2021- 28.03.2021

Online



(c) Shioka Okamoto